Varkala had been waiting for us for almost two years.
Every time I planned to take the family there, something happened. The trip got cancelled, the destination changed, or life simply came in between.
This long weekend was no different.
12 September 2026 — Varkala wasn’t the plan
With the Ganesh Chaturthi long weekend, I originally planned Thrissur. We would stay at my friend’s place and cover Thrissur, Guruvayur, Cherai Beach and a few places around.
Then my friend’s plans changed at the last minute. So did ours.
Varkala.
A destination that had survived almost two years of cancelled plans suddenly became our destination with hardly any planning. And strangely, that probably made the trip better.
Madurai to Varkala
On Saturday, 12 September, the four of us left home around 8 AM.
The long-weekend crowd hit us immediately. Temple City, where we stopped for breakfast, was packed. Hotels everywhere seemed full, breakfast itself became an exercise, but eventually we managed.
After that came a drive that was new to me. I had been to Tenkasi a few times, but hadn’t driven this particular route to Kerala before. So it was Google Maps, cautious driving and casual conversations with my wife while the kilometres disappeared.
By afternoon, we were in Varkala.
Back after sixteen years
This wasn’t my first Varkala trip. I first visited in 2010 and was completely sold on the place. I always thought I would return soon.
“Soon” took 16 years.
A lot had changed. The crowds were bigger. B&Bs, homestays and resorts had multiplied. Varkala was certainly busier than the place stored in my memory.
But the cliff, the sea and that unmistakable Varkala vibe were still there.
For my wife and kids, everything was new. For me, it felt like reopening an old bookmark.
48 hours around water
The kids quickly established the theme for the holiday: water.
If they weren’t at the beach, they were in the swimming pool at Paddle Cult. If they weren’t in the pool, they wanted to go back to the sea.
Our first evening was simple—playing at the beach followed by dinner at Darjeeling Cafe. There was live music, pizza for the kids and a lovely atmosphere.
After the long drive, everyone else was exhausted. I somehow still caught the vibe.
13 September 2026 — The best part wasn’t at the beach
Sunday’s mangrove boat trip became the highlight.
We sailed through the backwaters and narrow mangrove tunnels. Somewhere along the way, the children appointed themselves the official photographers of the trip.
There was even a drone shoot in the middle of the backwaters.
We stopped for refreshments—tender coconut water and fresh juice sold from a boat—and then came the part the kids were waiting for.
Jumping into the backwaters for a swim.
From that point, nobody was interested in getting out of the water.
It was one of those outings where nothing extraordinary needs to happen. Everybody is simply enjoying themselves at the same time. That itself becomes the memory.
Rice meals, cliffs and no timetable
Lunch was at Hotel Suprabhatham, an old vegetarian hotel in Varkala that had been recommended to us. We were lucky enough to get Kerala rice meals.
All four of us enjoyed it. And there was an unexpected holiday achievement too—despite eating outside throughout the trip, none of us had that usual heavy, indigestion feeling.
The rest of Varkala was deliberately unambitious.
Cliff cafés. Shopping. Beach views. Photographs. Walking around. Sitting somewhere because we liked the view.
The cliff strip was absolutely vibing.
Sometimes the best itinerary is not having much of one.
14 September 2026 — “I don’t want to go home.”
By Monday morning, when it was time to leave, my son had a serious objection.
He didn’t want to come home.
For almost 48 hours, the kids had moved between the sea, backwaters and swimming pool. Even when we were at Paddle Cult, getting them away from the pool was a task.
Our stay there also worked perfectly for us—comfortable, convenient and nothing to complain about.
We left Varkala around noon. On the return journey, my wife squeezed in some roadside terracotta shopping. We stopped at Hotel Hariharan in Shenkottai for lunch and later at Temple City Alampatti for snacks and coffee before finally reaching Madurai.
The holiday was over.
Perhaps that’s what a good vacation is
The kids called it their best vacation.
My wife said she finally slept well and managed to unwind from work.
And I returned to one of my favourite places after sixteen years.
No elaborate sightseeing checklist. No race to cover ten tourist attractions. No great plan, actually—the original destination wasn’t even Varkala.
Just four of us, a long drive, a cliff, cafés, the sea, mangroves, swimming, good food and two children who didn’t want the holiday to end.
Sometimes that’s enough to know a vacation worked.




